Meet The Chef: Max Coen Of Dorian

What inspired you to pursue a career in cooking, and how did you get started in the culinary world? 

After school, I went to university but quickly realised it wasn’t for me. Within three months, I had returned home near where my parents lived and began working in a local pub. One day, I was asked to cover an absence in the kitchen, and I never looked back. I immediately loved the focus and energy of the kitchen - the preparation, the cooking, and I decided that this was what I wanted to do. I started researching restaurants and chefs and soon understood that my opportunities would be better in London. It all moved pretty quickly from there. 

Can you share your culinary journey leading up to Dorian? What have been some pivotal moments in your career? 

My culinary journey began with minimal experience, handing my CV to local restaurants. I landed a Commis Chef position at Maze Grill, where I spent two and a half years learning and honing my skills. A pivotal moment came in 2017 when I reached out to Frantzén in Stockholm, asking for a stagiaire position. I was accepted and arrived in February 2018, just as the restaurant earned its third Michelin star. I embraced the challenge and learned invaluable lessons in precision and technique during my eight months there. That experience truly changed my perspective and ambition.

After returning to London, I worked at the Savoy Grill for six months before moving to Kitchen Table, with James Knappett. There, I thrived in the creative, fast-paced environment, and in 2019, the restaurant earned two Michelin stars, leading to my promotion to Sous Chef. During the 2020 lockdown, I experimented with my own dishes and with the support of Chris D’Sylva, I was running pop-ups in the Notting Hill Fish Shop. It was at this point I reached out to Chef Jeremy Chan at Ikoyi and joined the team in 2021. The meticulous approach at Ikoyi was transformative for me. 

Later that year, Chris D’Sylva offered me the chance to open a restaurant in Notting Hill. Though hesitant to leave Ikoyi, I embraced the opportunity and, with Jeremy’s support, made the leap. Dorian opened in October 2022 and quickly became a success, we earned a Michelin star in the 2024 Guide which was huge. 

Dorian has quickly gained recognition for its innovative approach. What do you feel sets the restaurant apart from others in Notting Hill and London?

The produce definitely sets us apart from other restaurants here in Notting Hill and London. Being a bistro and changing the menu is honest but also delicious, and there is still the technicality behind all the dishes we make. We attract a lot of foodies because of the complexity of the dishes, but also regulars who love their wine, oysters, and steak. Our menus appeal to all food needs. 

What has been your proudest moment since opening Dorian, especially given the Michelin recognition? 

Definitely the Michelin Star, but also seeing the amount of fellow industry support and chefs coming to eat and enjoy our food. That’s the best recognition you could get, in my opinion. 

Is there a particular dish or ingredient at Dorian that you’re especially excited about right now? 

We are approaching white Asparagus season, which I absolutely love. There is so much to play with and endless ideas for using this delicious vegetable. 

How do you source your ingredients, and how important is sustainability in your culinary philosophy?

We’re careful with what we waste from all the produce we use at Dorian, including animals and vegetables. We work with thirty-five suppliers for vegetables, meat, and fish, so we’re purely dependent on what we can get into the restaurant the next day. We don’t have a set criteria—it’s whatever is the best and available at that moment. 

What does receiving a Michelin star mean to you personally and professionally?

To get that recognition at that level is something I never expected, or was striving for necessarily. That recognition really cements your pride, and it’s challenged me in ways I didn’t think was possible. It’s a truly wonderful feeling. 

How has the Michelin star affected the way you run your kitchen and the overall operations of the restaurant? 

Initially, when we got the star, I had thoughts of what we had to do differently, which was wrong. I realised, all we had to do ws double down on everything we did the year before, so we get even rowdier, busier and fun. To double down on the quality of food, but also, to keep the thought process we’ve always had. That definitely didn’t need to change. 

What trends do you see emerging in the food industry, and how do you incorporate them into your work at Dorian? 

At Dorian, we try not to look into industry trends too much. I suppose cooking with a grill and small plates have definitely inspired what I’ve done and keep doing at the moment. 

Would you consider expanding Dorian or opening additional locations, or are you focused on perfecting the experience in Notting Hill? 

Chris, founder of Dorian, has always said Dorian will be the flagship of the quality produce we use, and the rowdy bistro that we know and love, but never do a second Dorian. There may be a spin on the concept that we’re working on in the pipeline, but more on that another time. 

What do you find most rewarding about being a chef, and what keeps you motivated in such a competitive industry?

It’s the love, passion and satisfaction people get from the hours and hours of thought I’ve put into the dishes that truly keeps me motivated. When you think of something different, and people love it, it's so inspiring. To stay inspired, I've just tried to enjoy what I do, and enjoy it every day as much as possible.  

Outside of the kitchen, what are your favourite activities or hobbies that help you unwind

Definitely my love for sport and exercise. I tend to play a lot of football, and golf too. Keeping active really helps me unwind when I’m not in the kitchen.