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Food and Drink

Top Table: MIKO Mei Fair

meat dish with rice at miko mei fair

Mayfair can make almost anything luxurious. The harder trick is knowing when to leave well enough alone. At MIKO Mei Fair, the luxury is in the cooking.

Samyukta Nair’s new Thai dining room takes dishes people already know and love and treats them with the seriousness usually reserved for tasting menus and very expensive French sauces. There is no urge to dismantle, reinterpret or intellectualise them. Instead, Head Chef Soonthorn Apaipat concentrates on the harder stuff: balance, texture, heat, acidity and ingredients good enough to withstand very little...

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