Meet The Chef: Larry Jayasekara of The Cocochine

Larry, you were born in Sri Lanka and later attended culinary school in Devon, what initially inspired you to pursue a career in the world of food? 

Honestly, it wasn’t a grand plan - it was more like the path found me. After struggling to find work, I took a job chopping vegetables in a small Thai restaurant. But something clicked. Being in that kitchen woke up a passion in me I didn’t know I had. I found myself watching the chefs work and asking questions. That’s when I realised this wasn’t just a job to pay the bills; it was what I wanted to do with my life.

You’ve previously trained with the likes of Marcus Wareing, Raymond Blanc and Gordon Ramsay. How did these experiences shape you, and what are some of the key lessons they’ve taught you? 

I was incredibly lucky to train under some of the best chefs in the world - Marcus Wareing, Alain Roux, Michel Bras, Raymond Blanc, and Gordon Ramsay. My training was creative, classic, and refined. I learned that attention to detail is not just about the food but the entire restaurant experience. It’s not just French cuisine; it’s about respect and love for ingredients, discipline, and precision - lessons I carry into everything I do.

You were previously Head Chef at Petrus, which is famed for its French cuisine. What is it about French cuisine that you’re particularly drawn to? 

I’m classically trained, so French techniques give me a foundation for creativity, both in flavour and presentation. French cuisine instils a respect for ingredients, discipline, and precision - all of which allow me to bring more freedom and imagination to my dishes.

During lockdown, you worked with the ‘Help Them Help Us’ charity to feed over 200,000 front-line workers. What prompted you to get involved with the charity? 

In 2020, when the pandemic hit, I knew I wanted to use my skills to help those saving lives on the front lines. It was personal for me - the NHS had saved a person who was very close to me, so supporting frontline workers felt like a way to say thank you. Through Mealforce, an initiative spearheaded by Ian Wace - one of the senior investors in The Cocochine - we joined forces with other restaurants to support the Helpforce charity. Together, we prepared and delivered over 212,000 meals to NHS staff at University College Hospitals across London.

It was a challenging but inspiring time. There was an incredible sense of teamwork and purpose in those kitchens. Off the back of that experience, and the success of the private dinners I was hosting, Ian and I began talking about opening a restaurant together. Those early conversations eventually led to The Cocochine. I was incredibly honoured to receive the Fortnum & Mason Special Award for this work.

The Cocochine is teeming with luxurious interiors, including specially commissioned mosaics, leather, marble and multiple Warhol paintings - how much do the interiors and aesthetics play into the whole fine dining experience? 

As I envisioned The Cocochine, I wanted the interior to be a celebration of art and craftsmanship, with every detail and precision thoughtfully considered around the guest experience. My goal was for the design elements to create a sense of welcome for everyone who enters.

Our exclusive private space on the second floor features bespoke furniture with textural elements of polished stone, soft leather and warm oak, and is further enhanced by a revolving series of curated original artwork. Overall, the experience is designed to be about personal connection and old-school hospitality.

Regenerative farming is at the heart of your kitchen - why is this such a key component of the restaurant, and how does it impact the menu? 

Regenerative farming is central to The Cocochine because it allows us to create food that’s not just delicious, but responsible. After 20 years in fine dining, I’ve seen how important it is to know exactly where your ingredients come from and how they’re grown. Working with the Rowler Estate in Northamptonshire gives us access to a regenerative mixed farm where soil health, biodiversity, and natural cycles are respected.

That commitment directly shapes our menu. Every dish starts with what is thriving on the farm or in the waters around Tanera Mòr in Scotland at that moment. Our guests experience hyper-seasonal produce, flowers, and livestock - from Rowler Farm Sika deer to native-breed beef and pigs - and fish, shellfish, and seaweeds that come straight from Scotland. Even ingredients like our single-origin Suffolk chocolate and pure Sri Lankan coconut cream reflect our focus on provenance and quality.

Ultimately, regenerative farming keeps us creative. It pushes us to celebrate the seasons and show that fine dining and sustainability can sit side by side - right in the heart of Mayfair.

How much of the menu is inspired by your own upbringing and travels? 

The menu is deeply personal - it’s a reflection of my Sri Lankan heritage, my travels, and the extraordinary ingredients we work with. There are nods to my upbringing throughout the menu, like the Ceylon King Crab Salad with consommé and apple, or the Rowler Farm Sika Deer paired with coconut and bitter chocolate — flavours I grew up with, reimagined for Mayfair. Other dishes like the Sri Lankan Pineapple with chilli and lime and the jaggery caramel we use with Tahiti vanilla ice cream also carry that influence.

Travel has shaped me as a chef just as much as my heritage. When I found quality aged soy sauce in Japan I knew it had to be on the menu. We use it with our Japanese Otoro Tuna to create an incredible depth of flavour. Dishes like our Banana Leaf BBQ Native Lobster also celebrate my love of Asian techniques, while the Rowler Farm Beef Pie is my ode to British comfort food, elevated for fine dining.

Every plate tells a little part of my story - a mix of memory, seasonality, and discovery.

What are your three favourite London restaurants for no-nonsense, crowd-pleasing food? 

• Tosa in Hammersmith 

• The Ledbury in Notting Hill

• Benares in Mayfair

Away from the professional kitchen, what’s your ultimate comfort food? 

A classic cheese sandwich - simple yet perfect every time. 

For more details, visit thecocochine.com