With a decade of dedication to the delicate art of Japanese cooking – and stints at two and three Michelin-starred temples of omakase in London and Tokyo – Chef Long has mastered more than just the blade. He’s a fish whisperer, a dry-ageing alchemist, and the man behind the scenes selecting only the sea’s finest for Taku’s 16-seat stage in Mayfair.
At Taku, where the sushi is sublime and the chefs are centre-stage, Chef Long is reimagining what it means to eat with your eyes, your heart, and your soul. The Sybarite sat down with the maestro of mackerel himself to talk about passion, precision, and the poetry of perfect nigiri.
You’ve spent nearly 3 years under the mentorship of Chef Takuya Watanabe. What are the most valuable lessons you’ve learned from him, both technically and philosophically?
Chef Takuya Watanabe taught me a great deal, and I carry a deep sense of gratitude for the trust he placed in me – especially in giving me the opportunity to run Taku. One of the most important lessons he imparted was the value of building and leading a team. He showed me that precision and discipline in technique are only one part of the picture – true excellence comes from cultivating an environment where people can thrive together. He also encouraged me never to be afraid of trying new ideas, even if they don’t seem perfect at first. They might not make it onto the menu or be implemented in the restaurant, but there’s always something to be learned in the process of exploration. That freedom to experiment – without fear of failure – was invaluable.
Your culinary journey spans a decade, including work at prestigious two Michelin and three Michelin-starred omakases in London and Tokyo. How have those experiences shaped your approach to creating the menu at Taku?
I’ve worked in a range of kitchens – from small local places to Michelin-starred restaurants in London and Tokyo – and every one of them shaped how I cook today. They helped me figure out what I love, what I don’t, and what kind of food I want to make. At Taku, I only serve dishes I enjoy cooking and eating myself. If I don’t enjoy it, I can’t serve it.
You’re described as a master fishmonger with expertise in curating the freshest catches and pioneering dry-ageing techniques. Can you share more about your dry-ageing process and how it enhances the dining experience?
It might sound strange, but you have to listen to the fish – it tells you whether it wants to be aged or enjoyed fresh. That decision comes down to quality, fat content, water content, and how I plan to serve it. If I choose to dry-age the fish, the first step is meticulous cleaning – removing all blood, guts and scales, as these are the first things to spoil. From there, it goes into a dry-aging chamber where I can control temperature and humidity. I check on it daily, observing the texture and feel. Sometimes the fish tells me it’s ready in three days, sometimes sooner – it’s a quiet dialogue. In the end, ageing is not just a technique, it’s about patience, sensitivity, and understanding what the fish is asking of you.
At Taku, you are responsible for sourcing the finest fish and creating new culinary wonders. Can you walk us through your creative process when developing a new dish?
When I come up with new dishes, I always start by looking to nature – what's in season, what's at its peak. I let that ingredient guide me, thinking about how to express it fully, how to use every part of it. From there, I think about places I've been, flavours I've tasted, and let those memories shape the direction of the dish.
Your partnership with Chef Takuya aims to deliver an unparalleled omakase experience. What do you believe sets Taku apart from other omakase restaurants in London?
What sets us apart is our approach to cooking. With the sushi, I stay close to Edomae tradition – allowing the rice to guide how we prepare and season the fish. But in the dishes before the sushi and the desserts, there’s more creative freedom. That’s where I bring in influences from my background growing up in London and working in kitchens beyond Japanese cuisine. Chef Takuya, based in Paris, brings a refined perspective rooted in Japanese technique. Being in the UK, it’s important for us to reflect our environment – working with British ingredients and expressing them through a Japanese lens. The result is something unique to Taku: rooted in tradition, shaped by place, and ultimately personal.
From your Japanese heritage to your expertise in culinary artistry, how do you balance tradition and innovation when designing dishes for Taku’s guests?
Balancing tradition and innovation comes naturally to me because it reflects who I am. My mum is Japanese, my dad is Chinese, and I grew up in London – so my approach to food has always been a blend of cultures. At Taku, I stay true to Japanese technique and philosophy. But there’s also space to explore and express other parts of my background. I’m always thinking about how to honour tradition while evolving it in a way that feels personal and relevant to where we are.
Taku offers an intimate, experience-led dining environment where guests interact directly with the chefs. How does this setting influence your approach to hospitality and storytelling through food?
Being in such close proximity to the guests allows us to shape the atmosphere in a really personal way. You can pick up on how they're feeling – whether they’re curious and want to engage, or they’d prefer to focus on their own company. It’s about reading the situation and adapting the experience without them having to say anything. That kind of awareness is at the heart of our hospitality – creating a space that feels comfortable, intuitive, and tailored to each guest.
Looking ahead, how do you envision the evolution of your craft and the dining experience at Taku? Are there new techniques or concepts you’re excited to explore?
At Taku, I want to keep pushing forward with my team to explore new ideas – they’re incredibly talented, and I genuinely enjoy working alongside them. My craft continues to evolve through constant refinement and curiosity. I’m also excited to collaborate more with other chefs and explore formats beyond the traditional omakase – whether through events, pop-ups, or creative dinners that allow for more spontaneity. Working more closely with UK producers is another focus.
London has such a vibrant culinary scene. Aside from Taku, do you have a favourite restaurant in London that you love to visit for inspiration or simply to enjoy a great meal?
I really enjoy Dorian. The food is always well cooked, with interesting techniques and great sourcing of ingredients.
Every chef has their guilty pleasure foods – those dishes they crave after a long day. What’s yours?
It’s really bad, but I can’t resist a bag of crisps, specifically sweet chilli Sensations. Once I open the bag, that’s it, game over. I’ll eat the whole thing without even realising.
Address: Taku, 36 Albemarle St, London W1S 4JE
Bookings: https://www.takumayfair.com/
