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By Olivia Bennett on 25th October 2024

As the English winemaking industry continues to blossom, Olivia Bennett takes a trip to Wiston Estate in the Sussex Downs.

Champagne houses are increasingly turning to the chalky soils of Kent and Sussex to grow the grapes for their famous fizz, so it’s no surprise that England’s own winemaking industry is flourishing, establishing itself as a key player in the global wine landscape. Eager to expand my palate, I found myself on a sunny April day on the train from London to West Sussex’s sprawling Wiston Estate, one such winery establishing England as a key player in the global wine landscape.

The 6000 acre Wiston Estate has been in the Goring family since the 18th century and is now presided over by Harry and Pip Goring. Wiston Estate began as a humble plot for growing traditional crops, yet Pip — hailing from South Africa — had a romantic vision that the chalk alkaline soil would be the perfect terrain for growing grapes. Initially dubbed too visionary, this dream came into fruition in 2006 when the first 16-acre vineyard was planted. Now overseen by the pair’s son Richard Goring and his wife Kirsty, the original vineyard has flourished into a bucolic 30-acre plot brimming with pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay grapes. This independent family-run winery produces around 70,000 bottles of their award-winning still and sparkling wines annually. 

Informative tours pull back the curtain on the creative process: detailing the family’s lineage, showcasing the traditional Champagne coquard press (a point of different for English wine production) as well as an all important tutored tasting of four of the estate’s sparkling wines: the biscuity quaffable Brut, an elegant Rosé bursting with red fruit and aromatic rose notes (literally summer in a glass), a crisp and appley Blanc de Blanc, and the Estate Cuvée, rich in warming notes of almonds and brioche, perfect for summer weddings.

Come for the wine and stay for the food. Alongside the tasting rooms sits Chalk restaurant, a chic 18th barn renovated under the expertly curated interiors eye of Kirsty Goring. Chalk excels in fine-yet-informal dining, celebrating the community at the heart of the estate through farm-to-table flavours. “We try to showcase the best Sussex has to offer – where possible from the estate and local farms – this minimises food miles and supports local farmers. We’re also lucky to have our walled garden which produces fruit and vegetables for the kitchen throughout the year.” Kirsty Goring tells me. 

I’m a firm believer that the bread sets the tone of a meal, and Chalk’s pillowy-soft focaccia served with cultured butter sets expectations high. Standout starters include a fresh and light medley of juniper-infused salmon with a colourful array of yellow and pink salt-baked beetroot. Jerusalem artichoke with crispy broccoli is served on a glossy layer of Stracciatella generously swirled with herbaceous pesto. Stellar mains celebrate hyper-seasonal produce include a duo of lamb fresh from the estate — rump and a morsel of rich belly topped with samphire served alongside grilled hispi cabbage — and locally-sourced melt-in-the-mouth cod loin, served alongside  crispy battered cod cheek and sea kelp in a tangy warm tartare sauce. Desserts do not disappoint, guests can expect delightful dishes such as creme caramel served alongside sweet honey cake and pearls of rhubarb, while chocolate ganache accompanied with salted caramel ice cream and shards of wafer will end the meal on a decadent note.

Chalk’s wine listing is impressive, naturally showcasing Wiston Estate’s full array of sparkling wines as well as their still varieties; the deliciously fruity Fifty Summers Rosé and the zesty, bright Wiston Estate Tank white. Chalk has curated a list of global wines to support their own offering. “With the non-Wiston wines, we try to focus on family-owned quality wine producers…we also like to show wines from producers who share some of our philosophies”,  Kirsty explains. 

With 122 covers inside the barn, an outdoor terrace hosts a further 60 guests. I can imagine, this sun trap makes an ideal setting to sit back and savour a glass of your favourite Wiston Estate tipple. The perfect excuse to plot a return trip …

www.wistonestate.com

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