Some travel experiences have the power to change your life. For Lucy Cocoran, a week in Botswana with Desert & Delta Safaris was nothing short of magical.
As the plane begins its descent over Chobe National Park, the view from the window is picture-perfect. The Okavango Delta stretches as far as the eye can see, winding and weaving its way through the marshland, its snakelike pattern is mesmerising. It's the closest thing to the Garden of Eden we can experience on earth.
This region is the beating heart of Botswana and the lifeblood for an array of remarkable wildlife. Within its great expanse, elephants, hippos, giraffes and cheetahs roam freely. They put on a show unknowingly, offering visitors an all-access pass to their wild world.
The flooded landscape of the Delta is truly special. Whether it be weaving through the reeds or kicking up dust on a dirt track, there is diversity day-to-day. With a focus on sustainability and eco-tourism, Botswana intentionally limits the number of visitors passing through, guaranteeing a level of exclusivity.
Desert & Delta Safaris — the tour company founded in 1982 — is the only operator to consider when booking a Botswana safari. With a comprehensive property portfolio, travelling between camps is common and made possible via charter. The group’s integrated company, Safari Air, operates 12-seater aircrafts to carry guests between properties. Flying at low altitude, these lodge hops are a very scenic way to travel.
Luxury at Chobe Game Lodge
As the only permanent lodge within the National Park, Chobe Game Lodge oozes history. Its walls have witnessed the second wedding and subsequent honeymoon of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. Vocal in his love for Botswana, Prince Harry has also frequented the lodge.
Luxury is evident in every last detail, and impressively, so are the sustainability efforts.
In spite of its 60-room size, Chobe Game Lodge holds the highest eco-grading from the Botswana tourism board. The property houses a fleet of electric boats and cars, a grey water treatment plant for irrigation, and an advanced recycling initiative. Guests will also notice the strong female presence among safari guides, with 20 women making up the ‘Chobe Angels’. The property is credited with creating Africa’s first all-female guide team, who form a critical part of the safari industry’s ongoing quest for gender equality. Brimming with knowledge and passion, they are pioneering a new era in a traditionally male-dominated industry.
Chobe Lodge is the only permanent lodge located inside the National Park which provides an enviable time advantage for driving safaris. There’s no burning daylight, with the ring of a 5am wake up call seeing guests pile into Land Cruisers. Instead, the blow of the brisk morning air is softened by thick blankets and hot water bottles. Once inside, Chobe guests are the first to enter the park. Before 9am, several groups have already witnessed a pride of lions hunting a herd of water buffaloes. It’s breathtaking and a little unnerving, but it’s the animal kingdom.
Energy is always high, but the thrill of spotting the big five shouldn’t pull focus from the other animals. Towering giraffes and grunting wildebeests are equally magnificent, as are the spiralling horns of the kudu antelope and the mighty wingspan of the African fish eagle.
Trading the four-wheel drive for an eco-friendly skimmer boat offers an entirely new perspective. Floating down the Chobe River, animals are undisturbed by human presence as they enjoy their morning. A pair of plump hippos can be seen napping in a watery mud hole while crocodiles glide along the perimeter, scanning for their next meal. On the riverbank, a troop of baboons enjoy the early sun, but they won’t turn their backs to the water for long, lest a croc get too close.
Sunsets are just as spectacular as sunrise. The outline of an enormous male elephant catches the early evening light. He flaps his ears in acknowledgement, before crossing the river, playfully blowing water through his trunk as he passes.
The word ‘savute’ means something that cannot be explained. The name comes from the erratic nature of the Savute Channel, which has a history of drying up and flooding, seemingly independent of weather conditions.
The newly refurbished Savute Safari Lodge lies on the banks of the channel. And, while the landscape may be unpredictable, the likelihood of seeing elephants is near certain. Botswana accounts for a third of Africa’s elephant population, and you’d be forgiven for thinking they all congregate at Savute Lodge. The property is positioned around a watering hole where herds of elephants gather every day to drink, bathe and play. Come nighttime, drinks can be enjoyed by the outdoor firepit while baby elephants provide endless entertainment by tugging on one another’s tails.
A symphony of animal noises can often be heard throughout the camp. Sometimes harmonious, sometimes offbeat, but always enjoyable. The trumpeting of an elephant is rivalled only by the guttural bellowing of a lion. This is natural immersion at its finest.
Savute Lodge has eleven chalets which, aesthetically, are a cross between a tent and a lodge. Natural thatching and canvas gives a rustic feel, while the colour palette resembles the striking colour contrasts of the Kalahari Desert in rich green and neutral tones.
When not in the room, time is best spent on the viewing deck, which is the lodge’s central hub. This is where meals are enjoyed and relaxation time is best spent, courtesy of the plunge pool and sun loungers. Underneath the deck, there is a dugout which boasts a ground level view of the elephants.
Four-wheel drive safaris are a popular activity at Savute Lodge. The chance to spot African wild dogs adds extra allure — especially given their endangered status — giving yet another reminder that we must protect our precious wildlife. Depending on their migration, zebras can also be seen on safari in Savute.
As the boat comes into dock at Nxamaseri Lodge, the staff’s welcome song rings out across the water. There is nothing the Desert & Delta team love more than a warm welcome, but this one strikes an emotional chord with the entire tour group.
Located on a private island on the waters of the Okavango Delta, Nxamaseri boasts a superior spot on the panhandle. The area possesses an innate sense of stillness and seclusion, wrapped in the shade of ancient Jackalberry and African Mangosteen trees.
Days here pass by in a blissful haze of skimmer boat tours, fireside meals and ethereal sunsets. The lodge is a prime destination for lure fishing, namely, the prospect of catching an indigenous tiger fish. Its wild and furtive nature ensures an exhilarating angling experience for everyone.
Given its waterside position, safaris are observed via boat or traditional wooden canoe, known as a mokoro. It drifts through the shallow waters, guided by a poler who displays expertise, balance and strength. From this low vantage point, native birds and the odd donkey or cow can be closely admired.
As a day trip option, a visit to Tsodilo Hills is highly recommended. It can be reached via car or more popularly by helicopter for an aerial safari experience. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a deeply spiritual and sacred place. Known as the ‘Louvre of the desert’, it contains 4,500 rock paintings, some dating back an estimated 26,000 years. Animals and human figures are depicted, quite literally painting the historical picture of the four hills. Led by an indigenous San guide, the excursion is a memorable way of engaging with local culture. Those eager to hike any of the trails will be rewarded with a spectacular view from the top.
The Desert & Delta team are second to none when it comes to generosity of spirit. There is no better way to experience Botswana than in their care.
For anyone fortunate enough to have Methale (Metal) Mosheti as their tour guide, the experience will be second to none. Metal is a gifted storyteller and a true Batswana advocate. Dazzlingly clever, he can spout historical, scientific and zoological facts on everything in the area. Absorbing as much of his seemingly endless knowledge was a true joy.
Special mentions must also be given to Richard (Richie), Ernest Chaba (Ernie) and Chobe Angel, KT. Whether it be the surprise setup of sunset drinks, the sharing of personal stories or the dedication to making each day memorable, the staff are one-of-a-kind.
For a week so surreal, words fail to capture the beauty of Botswana. It is experiences like these which remind us why we travel. Watching some of the world’s most majestic animals existing undisturbed, is a true privilege. It is the way nature intended for them to live.
Respecting its wishes, the Batswana people and their deep love of the land is an inspiration to view the world differently. When the call of the wild comes, the Desert & Delta team wait with open arms, ready to share their slice of paradise under the African sky.
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