Ekstedt at the Yard — Nordic Flavours and Open-Fire Cooking

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10th December 2024

Despite the British fascination for all things Nordic, the capital has seen a surprising lack of restaurants showcasing the fermented, cured, and rustic dishes that our neighbours up north are famous for.

Enter Ekstedt at the Yard, acclaimed Swedish chef Niklas Ekstedt’s first venture outside of his home country. Housed in Westminster’s Great Scotland Yard Hotel, the fire-focussed restaurant brings innovative Scandinavian techniques together with British seasonal ingredients to create an experience like no other.

On our visit this autumn, we had the pleasure of trying out the Journey to Scandinavia menu, a 5-course tasting menu where all ingredients are cooked on an open fire. Our experience included sommelier-selected wines for my guest and a mocktail pairing for myself. Despite being pregnant, I did not feel like I was missing out on any of the amazing dishes that were served as the team went above and beyond to provide alternative options that were just as flavourful and complex.

We began our meal with a trio of snacks: ember-baked scallops with sugar kelp and a moreish roe emulsion, a smoked celeriac tart with a punch of sherry vinegar, a beef tartare croustade for my guest, and a beetroot version for myself with a smoked emulsion. This playful selection really set the tone for the meal and we loved the smoky flavours coming through in each bite. For our next course, we were invited into the kitchen to meet head chef Luca Mastrantoni.

Mastrantoni, who grew up in Italy, credits his upbringing for his focus on keeping things simple, respecting the ingredients, and upholding the tradition behind the dishes he creates. “Italian cooking is all about elevating quality produce and letting it speak for itself, and that principle is something I carry through to my work at Ekstedt at The Yard,” he explains. As we feel the heat coming from the flames in his kitchen, he walks us through Ekstedt’s famous flambadou oysters with beurre blanc, where fresh and juicy oysters are cooked over the open grill with melted beef fat—a truly indulgent yet balanced dish. “Food is a journey, and we want guests to feel that they’re part of that journey. Inviting them into the kitchen allows them to connect with the process and experience the energy and passion that goes into each dish. It breaks down barriers and makes the experience more personal–it’s something that Niklas has brought to all his kitchens, and a key part of how guests enjoy his food,” says Mastrantoni.

Back at our table, my guest enjoys the birch-fired trout with vegetable foam and dill, which Mastrantoni tells me is his current favourite on the menu as it’s the perfect example of how they like to cook at Ekstedt—with lots of flavour and rooted in Nordic traditions. I’m equally as pleased with my seaweed-baked leek, which boasts delicious earthy tones. We’re also served slices of sourdough alongside homemade butter, presented with a side of theatrics: whey and pine oil are poured over the butter, adding an entirely new dimension.

Next it’s the game course, with pine-smoked wild duck breast, accompanied by a grilled apple puree, skewers of duck parts, and a delightful juniper brioche on the side. The final course was perhaps one of my favourites due to its creativity and a combination of flavours I had never had before: a fluffy cep mushroom soufflé delivers all the umami goodness you’d expect it to have, and when topped with the woodruff ice cream and blueberries, the flavours truly come alive.

The Sybarite speaks to Mastrantoni about how his approach to crafting such inventive dishes and his experience working with one of the world’s most imaginative chefs.

If you weren’t a chef, what do you think you’d be doing right now?

I’d probably still be working with my hands in a creative field, possibly as an artisan or in design. I enjoy seeing an idea through from concept to creation, so something that allowed me to build would feel fulfilling.

Was it difficult for you to make the shift from Italian to Nordic cuisine?

Yes, it was a challenge at first. Nordic cuisine relies on preservation techniques, earthy flavours, and local ingredients that I wasn’t as familiar with. However, before Ekstedt, I also had experiences with Asian and French cuisine. It’s always important for a chef to learn from different cultures and learning to respect these new ingredients and techniques opened up a whole new world for me and allowed me to be more creative.

Tell me more about your time working at Ekstedt in Stockholm

Working at Ekstedt was a transformative experience. It was intense but rewarding to learn new techniques and to immerse myself fully in a kitchen that values open-fire cooking. Stockholm’s food scene is unique and elevated and working there sharpened my skills and broadened my approach to food.

How do you collaborate with Niklas on the menu at Ekstedt at the Yard?

Niklas and I work closely together, always bouncing ideas off each other. We both want to keep the menu fresh and rooted in Nordic traditions but also explore new flavours and textures. It’s a creative exchange that keeps the menu evolving.

How do you find the balance between creating innovative dishes whilst still focusing on staying true to traditional Nordic flavour profiles?

I believe that innovation doesn’t mean completely changing a flavour profile. By using traditional Nordic ingredients and respecting local flavours, we can be creative without losing authenticity. I often find inspiration in tradition, which helps ground any new ideas.

What’s one ingredient you can’t live without?

Vinegar. Acidity in dishes is essential for achieving the perfect balance, and vinegar plays a key role in creating that equilibrium.

What do you have in store for 2025?

For 2025, I’m excited to keep exploring Nordic ingredients in new ways and introducing more seasonal elements into the menu. I’d also love to work on more collaborations and events to bring different cultures and ideas to the table.