South Tyrol: A Mountain Escape

The Journey Is As Important As The Destination

Even before you touch down, the appeal of the destination has shouted to you through the SkyAlps’ aircraft windows, because the fleet’s propeller-driven planes allow you to fly at lower altitude, closer to the serrated — and in some places, still snow-streaked — landscape below. The mountains are interspersed with preternaturally blue mountain lakes and clusters of habitation, while shreds of cloud melt and swirl below. On board, too, the delights of South Tyrol have been hinted at by way of regional wines and local snacks, including oily, salty, moreish grissini. 

Local  Flavours, Elegantly Imagined

Appetites thus whetted, our first night at Der Waldhof saw us dining on the restaurant terrace and plied with a sommelier-selected range of wines, as well as with expertly prepared local produce — and by local, I mean that some components were even sourced from the hotel’s own kitchen garden. An emphasis on provenance, sustainability and waste reduction means that the set menu limits choice, but not at all to the detriment of anyone’s enjoyment. Every mouthful, even a simple salad of leaves, was beautifully rendered.

This attention to flavour and detail featured in every meal during our stay, from a ‘tapas taster’ lunch at Somvino —during which we rhapsodised with equal enthusiasm over the food and the presentation —to an unforgettable five courses at the Michelin-starred Prezioso, Castel Fragsburg. From a deceptively simple kohlrabi with bacon crumbs to local venison with cranberry, every exquisitely plated course had us rolling our eyes ecstatically.

It’s Not Uva Yet 

The wines are no less impressive - not only in the restaurants, but also in the wine tourism we dabbled in during our stay. In Merano, we visited City Vinothek, where two years of meticulous restoration has resulted in a temple of oenophilia, with a lively wine bar-style setting at ground level, and cavernous spaces belowground, one of which forms a tasting room. Our guide’s passion for and knowledge about the product was infectious: even if it hadn’t been for the sudden storm outside,  we would have been more than happy to while away the afternoon inside, in her company. 

Another, more bucolic, experience came by way of Rametz Castle Winery, where we wandered among rows of growing grapes, which surround an imposing 13th century castle. Inside, the museum displays showcased elements of viticulture (as well as local speck production) and, after moving between various rooms, we found ourselves in a large hall — faintly reminiscent of Hogwarts — swirling and quaffing an impressive array of wines. The emphasis here is on Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, each of them equally interesting and flavourful. 

A Storied Past 

Of course, one of the reasons for South Tyrol’s superlative food and wine is the fact that it’s positioned between the sheltering Alps and warm Mediterranean. This location is also key in the region’s history which, in turn, has coloured so much of its culture: you only need to look at the street signs, written in both German and Italian, to catch proof of this.

Certain passes in the surrounding mountains were of strategic importance, providing a route between Italy, in the south, and the Germanic regions of the north, and South Tyrol was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire for hundreds of years. Merano — the second largest town in South Tyrol after Bolzano — rose to prominence in the 13th century and became the county’s capital, with the presence of the court and mint reflecting its prestige. Its economic significance as a trade hub was also a factor in its prosperity. 

However, its fortunes fell when the mint and court were both removed to Austria, but revived in the early 19th when its favourable position made it a popular destination for wealthy people —including Austrian royals — seeking the curative properties of the clean air and mild climate. Construction of upmarket hotels followed, as well as places of social gathering, such as the Kurhaus, theatre and Pavillon des Fleurs. 

Today, Merano, bisected by the rock-strewn, bubbling Passer River, has a Matteo Thun-designed spa on one side, and a jumble of pastel and honeycomb buildings, occasionally spiked with a spire or steeple, on the other - all backed, of course, by hills and mountain peaks. Be sure to wander the graceful archways of Via Portici (also known as Laubengasse - it’s that Italian/ German influence again): this pedestrianised shopping street dates back to the 13th century and is a lovely place to stop for a coffee or ice cream. For a view from the top, take the single-chair Panorama lift (Sessellift/ Seggiovia) which leaves from the city centre and cruises above neatly-rowed vineyards and hillside homes to a scene-sweeping height of 510m. 

Alpine Hospitality At Der Waldhof

A 20-minute drive along narrow roads and tight curves links Merano and Der Waldhof, the latter a family-run hotel, which opened in 1973. There are two distinct sides to the accommodation. One, with an Alpine-style, rustic appeal, and the other more sleekly contemporary, made up of blonde wood and sliding glass. If possible, request a room with a view, as some of the rooms in the modern wing overlook the carpark. 

Not that you’ll be spending much time in your room, because the facilities here are exceptional. The star of the show, from the exterior at least,  is undoubtedly the aforementioned infinity pool, which cuts a striking figure (and makes for an envy-inducing Instagram capture) but there are additional pools, both indoor and outdoor, to make a splash in. There’s also a vast spa and sauna area, where natural materials and soaring windows blend seamlessly with the views, offering maximum relaxation even without the addition of one of the treatments from the exhaustive menu, which includes wraps, massages, facials and body rituals. 

One feature of the spa area you can’t fail to notice is the incredible collection of crystals it houses; the hobby of one of the family’s ancestors. Perhaps their energetic properties contribute even further to the hotel’s pervasive sense of calm — as if, with such a blissful setting, it needed anything further. 

And yet there is, in fact, more. Such as a private forest area, where you can practise yoga, or simply sit and watch the sunlight dappling the lake. There’s also a wildflower garden, beehives, a tennis court, gym facilities and, of course, the kitchen garden. 

If I had one gripe during my stay, it would only be that the in-room kettle was accompanied only by teas and tisanes of Alpine herbs . Wellbeing is undoubtedly the goal of a stay at Der Waldhof, but I have to confess that I find it hard to leave my room without adequate caffeine. Then again, all the more reason to wake up with a swim in that utterly gorgeous pool. 

Hotel Der Waldhof offers rooms from €360 per room per night based on two adults sharing a double room on a 3/4 board basis, which includes a breakfast buffet, an afternoon buffet, and either a buffet-style or à la carte evening meal. Access to all spa areas is included. 

Hotel Der Waldhof

SkyAlps

Spring/Summer: SkyAlps operates twice-weekly flights from London Gatwick – Bolzano from €184 each way.

Children under two years old travel free of charge. For July and August 2025, flights will be thrice-weekly, operating on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays.

skyalps.com