Chef Victor Garvey boasts an impressive CV, with previous roles at the likes of El Bulli, Picasso at the Bellagio in Las Vegas and Noma in Copenhagen. Setting his eyes on London, he opened Rambla in 2017, and later Sola in 2019, which scooped a Michelin star and 3 AA Rosettes. His latest venture, Mater1a, taps into Garvey's years spent in Japan.
In Notting Hill, Victor Garvey’s exciting new restaurant combines exceptional food with culinary theatre, offering an immersive experience that transports diners to another realm. Read our verdict of this unique new arrival on London’s fine dining scene. By Will James.
A Touch of Alchemy
You could easily walk straight past. There is no sign; just an unassuming doorway marked by a simple, cryptic triangle. The emblem is a nod to the alchemical symbol for transformation, a subtle hint to what awaits behind the doors.
This is MATER1A (short for Materia Prima, Latin for raw material), the latest offering from chef Victor Garvey. Best known for earning a Michelin star at his Soho restaurant SO|LA, Garvey invites diners into “my own little world”, governed by three founding pillars: intimacy, simplicity, and purity. Here, Japanese culinary techniques are interwoven with global influences drawn from a career spent in premium kitchens across the world.
MATER1A immediately evokes a thrilling sense of mystery. My guest and I are guided down a dimly lit corridor that opens into what feels like the lovechild of a Japanese spa and a Manhattan speakeasy. We are shown to our marble table, nestled amongst handcrafted timber casting soft shadows from the warm, amber lighting. At each of our places rests a wax-sealed envelope, like the letter from Hogwarts, inviting us into Garvey’s world of culinary wizardry.
A Feast For The Senses
Proceedings open with an immediate awakening of the senses: sweet Marinda tomato in delicate Sakura miso broth with translucent agar-agar noodles. It’s fresh, vibrant, and so delicious that, when the waiter isn’t looking, we shamelessly tip the bowls back to drink every drop. It sets a sky-high benchmark for what follows.
Staying true to its name, the ingredients take centre stage: a presentation trolley is wheeled over, displaying the evening’s raw ingredients in their natural glory - turning the produce itself into part of the spectacle.
The MATER1A menu is constantly evolving, and we’re first treated to September in Three Bites - an exquisite trio featuring a decadent otoro tartlet crowned with caviar, silken chawanmushi layered with crisp Kaga futo-kyuri, and Japanese sardine atop toasted pan con tomate.
Next arrives Mr Tanaka’s Tuna - thick, ruby-red slices that melt in the mouth, expertly counterbalanced by an aromatic leek and elderflower consommé.
What follows is a dazzling procession of culinary craft from a chef at the top of his game. Dartmouth crab is paired with the tender sweetness of pea purée, followed by Scottish langoustine and lobster folded into ravioli for a hit of pure seafood delight.
Charred octopus rests upon a velvety canvas of duck liver, celeriac, and black shallot. The savoury crescendo arrives with roasted duck lacquered in a rich black olive sauce, offset by the bitter bite of grilled radicchio. Each dish looks like a miniature work of art, and the whole tasting menu is elevated by a thoughtfully curated wine pairing.
The sweet finale brings a playful exploration of seasonal fruit and patisserie, before the curtain call of bite-sized confections which completely dismantle any suggestion that you have no room left.
Final Verdict
MATER1A delivers what so few modern restaurants manage: pure escapism. It is a theatrical, sensory adventure that constantly surprises and delights.
With warm, expert service, Victor Garvey has created a masterclass in modern gastronomy; a feast for the senses. For those seeking supreme elegance, flawless culinary craftsmanship, and intoxicating alchemy, your table awaits.
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