Gastronomic Girona: Hostal de la Gavina

Surrounded by perfectly manicured lawns, the hotel juts off a craggy rockface, giving the impression that it’s suspended above the sea. It’s bedecked with an eclectic mix of lovingly-preserved antique furniture, lamps, artworks and tapestries. Rooms are kitted out with Murano chandeliers, original mahogany panelling, ornate bed frames and marble bathrooms with fragrant Floris products. Spacious, serene terraces and balconies are perfect for private relaxation.

There is a huge outdoor seawater pool for taking a few languid lengths under the Costa Brava rays. A glorious spa offers facials and massages with products from Swiss beauty giant Valmont. But I visited this exclusive village outside Barcelona to sample the hotel’s new Gastronomy Route.

Our culinary extravaganza began with a tasting menu at the hotel’s signature restaurant, Candlelight, which is overseen by Michelin- starred Chef Romain Fornell. This romantic spot, complete with soft lighting and a twinkling piano, draws locals and tourists keen to sample refined dishes. The vichyssoise is ceremoniously served in a large ice cube and topped generously with salmon roe. John Dory arrives on a bed of celeriac, accompanied by a creamy beurre blanc sauce. Rich and gamey pigeon is served in its own decadent juices.

Throughout the meal, the expert sommelier dispenses complimentary glasses of wine, from sparkling wine produced at the family’s estate to a Catalonian white rioja. The next morning, I made my way to the breakfast room. Here, the decor is inspired by Lake Como’s Villa d’Este. It’s a grand space to enjoy pan de tomate, pastries, fruit and cappuccinos, which are served in the prettiest pink and white ceramics. I’m a firm believer that the best way to explore a destination is through the stomach – and where better than the pretty, medieval city Girona, with an impressive 18 Michelin stars across its gastronomic scene?

Our affable guide from Girona City Tours took us on a whistlestop food tour, uncovering hidden gems and artisanal producers. Our first port of call was a local patisserie to seek out xuixo, doughnut-style buns brimming with crema Catalana. These are a true treat for those with a sweet tooth, especially when washed down with a cortado, the local coffee. We sampled local Iberico ham and sheep cheese with glasses of cava. At the vibrant market, we shopped like locals before our guide took us to taste “the best ever ice cream”. It did not disappoint.

A stone's throw from La Gavina is Clos d’Agon, an esteemed winery on a 42 hectare estate with a unique terroir. Here merlot, cabernet franc, grenache and sauvignon blanc grapes are lovingly grown and transformed into 11 varieties of award-winning wines. We enjoyed a tour of the vineyard and press before tasting a selection of wines, including Clos d’Agon tinto, a spicy red, matured in french oak, and Clos d’Agon blanco, a complex, citrusy white.

Our final evening took us to Restaurant Esperit Roca – the latest Roca brothers venture – to sample the best dishes of El Celler de Can Roca, the three Michelin-star restaurant in Girona that made the trio famous. Situated within the walls of a 19th-century fortress atop a mountain, the restaurant’s dramatic backdrop adds gravitas to a memorable meal.

Before the feast, we took a tour of the estate. The highlight is a dramatic cellar in the castle’s dome, which resembles a modernist art gallery. Here, 80,000 bottles of wine are stored. The meal began with The World, a selection of five canapés inspired by far-flung cuisines, all served ceremoniously on a rotating globe.

All The Prawn is a legendary dish, incorporating a juicy Palamós red prawn, velouté and crispy prawn legs in a sweet and buttery prawn head sauce. Rain Forest highlighted Jordi Roca’s confectionary magic, with unexpected flavours. The dish resembles the forest floor after it rains, thanks to a combination of cocoa, pine and death trumpet mushrooms underneath a theatrical bubble of earth distillate.

Our culinary journey culminated in lunch at La Gavina’s celebrated fish restaurant, La Taverna del Mar, overlooking Sant Pol’s golden sands. This nautical-inspired restaurant is quintessentially Mediterranean, famed for fresh seafood. We feasted on langoustine salad, mountains of mussels, and giant pans of paella, family style.

Hostal de La Gavina’s Gastronomy Route offers a multi-sensory exploration of the Costa Brava’s rich culinary scene, paired with exquisite accommodation. The Gastronomy Route is a three-night experience, starting from £2,500 for two guests.

lagavina.com/en

gironafoodtours.com

esperitroca.com

closdagon.com