Kristýna Jandová discovers a slower pace of life in the heart of Modica, Sicily. Below, read her review of boutique hotel, Casa Talia.
There exists a quiet dream whispered by the soul of every city dweller: to trade the concrete rush for the rhythm of nature, to replace the digital glow with the warmth of the sun. For Marco and Viviana, two architects from Milan, this dream began as a fleeting thought of a Tuscan farmhouse. But as fate spun its most beautiful thread, their journey led them to a rugged, forgotten land and to a place that was not merely to be built, but to be felt, experienced, and loved—a place where they would rediscover the very essence of life and of themselves.
A Fateful Discovery
In Marco's own words, the discovery of Modica was a pure coincidence. In 2001, on a vacation to Sicily, he and Viviana were persuaded by a local to take a detour from their planned destination of Noto. While Noto is famously a cinematic backdrop, gaining international attention from shows like The White Lotus and classic films such as L'Avventura, fate had a different, more personal setting in mind for them. After a 40-minute drive from the famous baroque city, they arrived in Modica. It was here, as they looked out at the city illuminated below them "like a theatre," that they stumbled upon a derelict plot and, without a moment's hesitation, they declared: “That’s the place. We found it.”
What followed was a revelation that sealed their destiny. Marco, whose father was Sicilian, had always vacationed on the island but never in the southeast. Upon settling in Modica, he discovered that his family name, Giunta, originated in the very town he had accidentally fallen in love with. It was an undeniable connection, a sign that they were exactly where they were meant to be.
The Soul of Modica
Modica is a city unlike any other. A UNESCO World Heritage site and a brilliant example of Sicilian Baroque, it was once the powerful capital of a vast kingdom and a centre of culture and intellect with its own university. Built within a deep canyon, it was once known as the “Venice of the South” for the three rivers that ran through it. Today, those rivers are paved streets, but the city's unique topography creates a stunning labyrinth of winding staircases and hidden viewpoints. The city also holds a reputation for its unique Aztec-inspired chocolate, a remnant of its Spanish heritage. What struck Marco most was not just the dramatic landscape but the vibrant, authentic community where generations intermingle freely. It wasn’t a tourist trap, but a living, breathing place with a soul they knew they had to be a part of.
A "Life Project" Built by Hand
With their dream ignited, Marco and Viviana decided to transform the abandoned plot—originally a collection of over 28 derelict houses—into a boutique hotel. This wasn't a business venture; it was a "life project" to be built with their own hands. The task was monumental. For three years, they had no road access, so every single material had to be carried up the hill. They painstakingly restored one or two rooms each winter, slowly stitching the complex together. Their philosophy was simple: a place "made by hands" that has a unique and lasting character. The restoration was a powerful blend of their individual talents: Marco's clean, modern sensibility and Viviana's mastery of natural materials like stone, lime plaster, and cane roofs.
They first opened their doors in 2005 with just three rooms, beginning a legacy that, this year, celebrates its 20th anniversary.
A Design of Connection
The architectural design of Casa Talia is meant to foster connection and a sense of peaceful intimacy. Inspired by the quiet beauty of Moroccan riads, the rooms are all independent but open onto a lush central garden that acts as a haven for quiet moments and chance encounters with fellow guests. Each room is a private oasis, perched on different natural levels of the terrain and featuring its own terrace or balcony with a magnificent panoramic view of the ancient city.
This act of inviting you to stop and admire is the very essence of the name "Talía," which means “look, admire!” in Sicilian dialect. The word also has a deeper significance, deriving from the Greek verb thallo, meaning "to flourish and to be flourishing." It’s a name that perfectly encapsulates the feeling inspired by the landscape, a feeling poetically captured by the Sicilian writer Gesualdo Bufalino:
"I was young and happy one summer... that summer, and perhaps it was the grace of the place where I lived, a country in the shape of a broken pomegranate..."
The Art of Slow Living
Staying at Casa Talia is an experience for all the senses. Marco’s philosophy extends far beyond a typical hotel stay, evident in his commitment to providing a genuine experience. He intentionally avoids a common buffet breakfast, opting instead to personally serve his guests each morning. "I don't want to give you food," he says, "I want to give you an experience." The food is strictly seasonal and local, with jams made from the property’s own fig tree and oranges served only when they’re ripe.
So what does it really feel like to stay here? Stepping into one of the rooms at Casa Talia feels like entering a different time, a place where the concept of a ticking clock melts away and you can truly breathe. The soft, uneven walls, reminiscent of ancient caves, create an immediate sense of peace, while the meticulously restored furniture feels as though each piece tells a story of Marco and Viviana's labour of love. Your morning begins with breakfast under a rustling olive tree, the scent of fresh local jams filling the air as you take in a breathtaking view of Modica.
From this tranquil base, a world of experience awaits. In just a 20-minute drive, you can explore some of Sicily's beautiful beaches. In the evening, the slow pace of the day gives way to a vibrant energy. You can watch the sunset over the city while swimming in the infinity pool, then, with just a few steps, you are in the heart of Modica, where the night comes alive with people enjoying dinners and drinks, full of the energy from a day well spent.
This commitment to authenticity also extends to their new restaurant. While many boutique hotels aim for a Michelin star, Marco’s vision is to create a "family food" experience, like a traditional Sicilian grandmother’s kitchen. The daily menu will be simple, with no choices, based entirely on what is fresh from the market. To complete the experience, guests can take part in a cooking class to learn the secrets of this soulful cuisine.
A Pioneer's Path to Purpose
Marco views himself as a pioneer. Before Casa Talia, he was the first in Italy to invent and produce furniture from cardboard, a highly successful and lucrative venture he willingly left behind. He insists that his decision to move to Sicily was a "life choice," not a business one, willingly sacrificing a high salary for a better quality of life.
This pioneer spirit was tested during the COVID-19 pandemic. When global travel came to a standstill, forcing them to close for a year, Marco and Viviana faced a choice: save their energy or invest in the future. They chose the latter, dedicating the quiet period to creating new services, including a beautiful swimming pool and a bar. It was a testament to their unwavering belief in their "life project" and their commitment to continually evolve.
Ultimately, Casa Talia is a place that reflects the love and dedication poured into it. It is a haven for those who seek to disconnect from the noise of daily life and reconnect with an authentic way of being.
As Marco explains, "I can do this job just because of my visitors." People come from all over the world not just for a hotel, but for the personal story, the design, and the palpable energy of a place born from the discovery that a life of quality is the greatest reward.
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