In this edition of Meet The Chef, Ella Williams tells The Sybarite about her first foray into the culinary world, her career highlights thus far, her penchant for Maldon sea salt, and more.
Ella Williams cut her teeth in the cheffing world at just 15 years old when she completed a placement at Park Lane Hotel. Since then, she's worked her way through the kitchens of top restaurants including Mountain, Crispin, Cafe Murano, and Cinder. This month, Williams joins bakery, all-day bistro and wine bar No. Forty Nine as their Head Chef, where she'll be working alongside Cinder Chef Owner, Jake Finn.
What is your earliest memory of food?
My earliest memory of food is my earliest memory ever, which says it all! I was two, it was the reception of my aunty’s wedding and also my birthday. I remember sitting on the floor at the now-closed Colombian restaurant, La Marimba, in Brixton. It was owned by chef Omar, a friend of my father’s who’s sadly passed. I found a piece of Juicy Fruit chewing gum wrapped on the floor and of course shoved it in my mouth. I can’t even describe what I was feeling! It’s the most intense memory I have. That was the same day I tried saffron for the first time, in a rice dish. It’s the most nostalgic ingredient and flavour profile for me. Whenever I eat either, I’m instantly transported to being a two year old on those terracotta steps.
When did you first become interested in cooking and who first inspired you?
I became interested in cooking when I was very young. Although I come from a family of chefs with my father being one, it was my mother that inspired me and first taught me to cook. Sunday was my favourite day as a child. In the morning she’d make an English breakfast and later a Sunday roast. I’d always be the last one at the table as a child, using my toast to make a canapé with breakfast toppings and stuffing my yorkies with chicken.
What is your favourite ingredient to cook with and why?
Definitely Maldon sea salt, dashi powder and sherry vinegar. Salt makes everything better! Maldon itself doesn’t just taste like salt, it has its own flavour as well, which I love. I frequently eat it on its own in a rather worrying amount, usually to the dismay of those around me! The same goes for dashi powder - you can put it in nearly everything. I love toasting it and adding it to a beurre blanc or a roux. I drink sherry vinegar like its sherry wine! I love its subtle yet sweet and sharp flavour.
You’ve previously worked at the likes of Hausu, Mountain, Crispin, Cafe Murano, and Cinder - how did these experiences shape your career and your skillset?
Cafe Murano taught me about the importance of technique and methodologies. The recipes are so simple there but it's all about how you do it. Italian food is only seemingly simple. But if you make a pesto, for example, and add the ingredients in a different order each time, you can end up with a completely different flavour and texture.
Cinder taught me how to grill, which is my favourite cooking technique. Learning how to grill on a josper oven was certainly a test as there’s a real skill to it. Cinder was also the first restaurant that taught me how to bridge and notice similarities in different cuisines and cultures. Cinder and Jake (Cinder’s Head Chef) specifically have had the biggest overall influence on my cooking style. Jake and my old head chef Joel Ryan (now group head chef of Berenjak) were the first people who I felt truly believed in me and my abilities. They gave me my first senior role as Jr Sous, and learning under both of them - with their kindness and patience - set the tone for my understanding of how to manage teams in a leadership role.
Mountain was the restaurant that really taught me about the profound importance of produce. I’d never felt so connected to the food I was cooking before. It also taught me a lot about wine - daily food and wine briefings were my favourite part of the shift and it was a real honour to learn from the best sommeliers in the city.
Crispin is one of my favourite places that I’ve ever worked at and working for Mike Miles was a real honour. I gained so much from being his Sous chef. We changed the menu nearly everyday, and his creativity and ability to adapt is something that will stay with me forever. We did so many events there and it really taught me about stock control, ordering, costing and general system management. This helped me immensely when I started doing events by myself and working freelance.
Hausu, meanwhile, really taught me about the importance of nurturing. Watching the team transform and flourish over the time I worked there was emotional to say the least. I also loved the kitchen counter element as the guests would be sitting so close to us in the kitchen. Feeling connected to the guests was something I’ve never really experienced before. I also loved welcoming regulars and letting them know what was new on the menu.
How do you remain calm under pressure - do you have any rituals or routines that you follow?
I used to stress a lot! After a five-year long battle to understand what was wrong with me, I was diagnosed with Crohn’s disease at 21. It's a disease that is triggered by food and stress, so essentially being a chef. It really puts life into perspective for me. If I stress too much, it can literally put me in hospital as it has done before. Since then, I really had to sit with myself and take control of the things I was going to allow to stress me. Nowadays, I try to see things as if they’re already over, which helps to ease the stress. At the end of the day, it’s just me having to constantly remind myself that in this job nearly every problem has a solution even if it's one you don't like!
A chef friend once told me that there are type A problems and type B problems. Type A problems are things you have zero control over, like a death or a house fire. Type B problems are all things that you can control, at least to some degree. This conversation is one that I'll keep with me forever. It completely shifted my perspective on everything.
What does it take to thrive as a chef in a buzzy London restaurant?
Preparation, communication, trust, and adaptability.
What has been your career highlight to date?
So many things! I think it's whenever my parents and sister come to visit me at work, or whenever I have a chance to work with them. I cook with my dad at events all the time - he was there to support me on the opening day and evening service for No. Forty Nine.
Even my mum has done front of house and worked as a kitchen porter at events I’ve done! I'm eternally grateful to have them as parents - being able to create memories with my favourite people whilst doing my favourite thing is something words can barely describe.
How has London influenced your cooking style?
In every way. I always say living in London is like living in the whole world at the same time. South London, specifically Tooting, has shaped me the most though, not just as a chef but as a person. I’m the fourth generation from Tooting on my father’s side, and the second generation on my mother’s side. It’s a very culturally diverse area, with large Sri Lankan, Pakistani, Polish, Caribbean, British and Brazilian communities. I grew up eating all of these foods. It's a privilege to walk down the road and get sausage from a number of Polski Skelps, or a patty from Mixed Blessing Bakery or Don’s Hut.
The most I’ve learnt from my area has arisen from the food shops. I go in and spend the day lurking in the isles and picking out anything that I’ve never heard of before. It’s how I’ve discovered so many of my favourite cooking ingredients including Sri Lankan passion fruit, Isot chilli, Betel leaves, actually good cassava, malagueta chilli’s, and so much more.
You’ve recently taken on the role of Head Chef at No. Forty Nine in St John’s Wood - does this feel like a particularly proud moment for you?
I don't know if I'd say I'm proud to be completely honest. I've been so focused on trying to get everything in order that I haven’t had time to think about it until now. It’s emotional thinking about how young I was when I started as a chef and how young I still am. I’m just excited to work with the kitchen team. They’re honestly fantastic and I’m not entirely sure how I got so lucky!
Can you share any advice for aspiring chefs looking to succeed in the culinary world?
Remember you can love being a chef and hate the place you're cheffing in. Don’t let a poor environment stagnate you from achieving your dreams and growing as a person. There are so many fantastic kitchens in the world, so don’t hesitate to leave somewhere that’s not working for you.
Looking ahead, what would you love to achieve in the next five years?
No idea! I used to think way too far ahead into the future to the point it would mentally cripple me! To be completely honest, I just take each day as it comes and let things come to me and then decide if I want to do them or not.
Away from the professional kitchen, what is your favourite comfort food?
Lamb shish with vermicelli rice, baba ganoush, tabbouleh and toum from my favourite Lebanese joint Rorro and Mizou in Battersea, as well as six wings and spicy chips with garlic and mint sauce from my local chicken shop, BFC Colliers Wood. They make their own wings and they’re the best wings I’ve ever had. My father introduced me and he loves it so much that he’s got several fines from illegally parking to get his wings! He’s definitely got his priorities in order. I eat both at least once a week.
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