At Penha Longa Resort, there's something for avid golfers, spa enthusiasts and fine dining fans alike.
Penha Longa Resort occupies a serene spot against bucolic Sintra’s rolling hills. With two golf courses, enchanting woodland trails and seven restaurants, this pretty patch of Portugal feels like a destination in itself. But it is a luxurious base to explore the wider cultural landmarks of Cascais and the hubbub of the more well-trodden Lisbon.
Located deep within the UNESCO World Heritage Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, the resort is accessed via a meandering, tree-lined driveway. The frosted pink hotel emerges like a wedding cake against the foliage. A honey-hued 14th century monastery and chapel lend gravitas to this historic spot. At check-in, I was served a sharpener of white port and tonic to refresh us after the flight, before sweeping into my garden suite.
A Room With a View
The hotel was renovated in 2023, with all 187 rooms and 17 suites across three wings getting a makeover. The original capacious marble bedrooms and full-side Diptyque products remain, but everything else has been tastefully revamped in neutral hues and light textures for a fresh, timeless feel that draws the outside in. Wide corridors are peppered with pieces from local artisans, which guests can buy.
Importantly, every room has a balcony for views from every angle, whether it’s the pool or golf course. The attention to detail is unparalleled. I return to a bookmark left on top of my holiday reading, while the turndown service includes luxury treats on my pillow, from a Natura Bissé cleanser to decadent delights from the on-site chocolate room.
Gastronomic Genius
With seven restaurants – two of which boast Michelin stars – Penha Longa is an epicurean’s dream. Internationally renowned Spanish chef Sergi Arola oversees two of these outlets, Arola and LAB by Sergi Arola. Overlooking the golf course, Arola is a sun trap with reimagined tapas dishes, perfect for lunch. Veal croquettes with a truffle mayonnaise, thin slices of seabass in a passionfruit and chilli water, unctuous lobster rice and melt-in-the-mouth dry aged entrecote are astounding.
For a memorable fine dining experience, LAB by Sergi Arola takes guests on an immersive culinary adventure. This feast for the senses begins with a succession of canapés drawing upon Portugal’s landmarks, popular dishes and local produce, culminating in a seven-course tasting menu. These dishes are exquisite works of art. From potatoes and mushrooms with a cured egg yolk and topped with sturgeon caviar, to veal sweetbread with caramelised molasses and toasted corn on a lentil stew, they are all paired with the sommelier's choice of wine. For a more relaxed affair, enjoy lunch poolside at AQUA where fresh pressed juices, generous spritzes, Caesar salads and fries are the order of the day.
Guests should not miss dinner at the exclusive 22-cover restaurant, Midori, the first Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant in Portugal. Chef Pedro Almeida puts an Azores twist on Japanese dishes. Portuguese stew wrapped in a cabbage leaf in a miso broth, platters of delicate nigiri, a flavour bomb of eel and porkhead terrine, and a sakura, almond and cherry cake arriving in a mystical swirl of liquid nitrogen are highlights of this ceremonious dining experience. Throughout, the meticulously matched wines provide a snapshot of Portugal’s vibrant and increasingly celebrated wine scene, with selections from Madeira to the Douro Valley.
Sweet tooths should stop by The Chocolate By Penha Longa, the hotel’s innovative chocolate shop. It is a labour of love that has been more than 10 years in the making, under the watchful eye of Executive Pastry Chef Francisco Siopa. Reminiscent of an exclusive jewellery boutique, glossy jewel-like confections are housed in glass cabinets. Guests can partake in a wine-and-chocolate tasting to experience Siopa’s amazing creations. Flavours range from the classic to the bold and experimental. We even sampled a sardine infusion, an unexpected hit that fused sweet and salty notes.
Wellness Warriors
Sink deeper into the zen-like mood of Penha Longa Resort with a trip to the spa, situated in a mind-stilling Asian- inspired garden. Unwind against the soundtrack of trickling waterfalls,interrupted only by the occasional croak of a frog from the lily pad-studded pond and bird song. The outdoor relaxation area is perfect for reclining with a book, taking an al fresco yoga class, or hopping into the jacuzzi.
Transformative treatments have been crafted in collaboration with Spanish skincare giant Natura Bissé. I enjoyed a particularly mollifying signature massage using the brand's invigorating and aromatic body oils. Meanwhile, Penha Longa Wellness is where you’ll find heated indoor and outdoor pools, and a fitness centre equipped with Techogym equipment, where you can enjoy mountain views as you work out. It’s open 24/7 for early birds and night owls alike. For an extra slice of paradise, slip away to the adults-only infinity pool with panoramic views over the golf course. Speaking of which, Penha Longa Resort is a golfer’s dream, with nine and 18-hole courses proving a large draw for hotel guests hoping to tee off in serene surrounds.
Moments of Exploration
While the monastery is mostly used for private events, it’s worth popping in to marvel at the perfectly preserved tiles and awe-inspiring chapel. The hotel is just a 15-minute drive to the UNESCO heritage town of Sintra to the north, or equidistant to the charming seaside town of Cascais to the south.
Ahead of your visit, the hotel concierge can arrange tours. Learn about Cascais’ maritime routes and visit the stylish marina for excellent seafood – or a creamy, flaky pastel del nata, a Portuguese classic. Guided tours can take you along the rugged coastline, passing surfing hotspots, before arriving at blustery Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of continental Europe.
Penha Longa Resort offers genuine escapism with a chance to get close to nature and experience historic charm combined with modern elegance. This sprawling hotel invites relaxation and exploration in equal measure, allowing guests to holiday at their own pace. Now that’s the ultimate luxury.
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