By
Baldwin Ho
on
16th July 2024
The idea of sustainable, slow tourism is going from strength to strength in Sicily thanks to boutique countryside retreats like Susafa.
They have been attracting a younger audience who are more environmentally conscious and seeking a digital detox. The hotel has been under the ownership of the Saeli-Rizzuto family for five generations. Manfredi Rizzuto is the current owner of the estate and is very hands-on in all aspects of the hotel, taking an upstanding approach whereby he prioritises sustainability over profit margins. The word “Su-sa-fa” means they know how to do it. This was used for communities that were self-sufficient and had no need for external supplies. Whilst Susafa hasn't quite reached those lofty heights yet, that is certainly their goal for the future.
The history
The rural property has around 1,200 acres. Yet, it is still a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, as the property has only eighteen charming rooms, including eight suites. The hotel might not be for everyone, as it is a 1.5-hour drive from Palermo airport and not in the vicinity of any major city. However, those who book, know they will be in the heart of the Sicilian countryside and far away from the modern-day stresses of city living. Service is as personable as it gets, staff will know you on a first-name basis. The bartenders will know your preferred drink of choice. The waiters will remember your dietary requirements.
In 2018, the expansive farmhouse development was turned into a rustic, Eco-retreat. Instead of having a television in your room, you are encouraged to lose yourself in their sprawling, exotic garden. Manfredi has sought to repopulate the area with more native trees and grow fruits that are endemic to the region, such as nespole. The flora is often helpfully labelled in the garden, so you could pick up plenty of botanical knowledge on your mini-garden strolls throughout the day. The owner is particularly fond of the mint family, so you might come across lemon balm and water mint. You will not be surprised at all to discover these fruits and herbs might appear on your dinner menu, as they push for increasing sustainability.
The rooms
The rooms do vary a lot in both size and style. They are all converted from former farm buildings. The categories start with the classic double, which is housed in the former "birthing stable". This is where the cows who were about to give birth were transferred to. At a respectable 21m², the decor evokes Sicilian farmhouse charms. The local materials used include handmade, wood stove-baked, Sicilian terracotta tiles for the flooring and Sicilian chestnut for the beamed ceiling. A soothing night's sleep is guaranteed with their goose feather pillows and comfy sprung mattresses. However, Manfredi has given careful consideration to finding the right balance between sustainability and comfort when using synthetic material in the bedding.
The suites are considerably more spacious such as the superior suite at 70m². The design is on the more modern and refined side. It is situated in the old field guard's accommodation on the first floor of the main building. A prominent feature of the suite is the open-plan bathroom with a statement white ceramic bathtub. The shower/shampoo and hand soap are locally produced using Sicilian fragrances.
The dining
Dining and drinking is a key part of the Susafa experience. Their restaurant is situated in their former Old Granary. The menu is all about seasonality and celebrating the quality of their raw materials. Dishes are not overly complicated from a technical standpoint with a focus on regional cuisine. They offer complimentary garden tours daily where you can visit their vegetable and herb garden and talk with their chefs about the evening's menu. For dinner, they tend to offer a 4-course tasting menu that includes a pasta course. Dishes you might encounter include thistle tartare and whole grain Susafa gnocchetti in beans soup with rosemary. They still grow a significant amount of Majorca wheat, which is an ancient Sicilian wheat that is particularly white, soft and nutritious. You can sample this local delight in plenty of the dishes they offer.
Housed in the former wine-pressing area, the bar is another highlight of Susafa. They run a wine-tasting session every Thursday from 6.00 pm and are hosted by Manfredi himself, who is particularly passionate about Sicilian wines, especially natural and bio-dynamic wines. It features 10 wines and is a great way to also understand the topography of the island as Manfredi takes you on a whirlwind tour of Sicily through the various wine regions.
The added extras
The hotel specialises in arranging bucket list experiences. One of the most unique is to enjoy an aperitif in the golden wheat fields of Susafa during sunset. The mesmerising backdrop, whilst enjoying sparkling wine and savoury snacks is one of those moments that is almost impossible to replicate anywhere else. They have curated other bespoke experiences such as picnics in the treehouse, a day out in the sea on their sailboat Quasar, and cooking workshops with their in-house chefs. The latter is particularly recommended if you want to learn about traditional Sicilian cuisine. It can range from cannoli making to pasta making to creating local delights such as arancine, panelle, and caponata.
Susafa
https://www.susafa.com/
Address: Contrada Susafa, 90028 Polizzi Generosa PA, Italy
Phone: +39 338 960 8713
Email: info@susafa.com
