From cowboys and country ballads to chowing down on hot chicken, there’s a certain kind of magnetism to Tennessee.
On a recent visit, Sara Darling discovered that neighbourhood honky-tonks and whiskey go hand in hand with contemporary art and late-night cocktails; plus the accommodation is to die for!
Chattanooga: The Culture-Filled Underdog
I began my Southern adventure in Chattanooga. Not the biggest city or the most visited, but it should be on your radar for a day or two. Once the centre of the African American jazz scene, you can immerse yourself in its legacy at the Bessie Smith Cultural Centre. This large, interactive museum traces the region’s deep roots in jazz and blues, and it is a pilgrimage for anyone seeking to understand where American music truly began (just check the opening hours - it’s closed on Saturdays). Nowadays, the city is carving a reputation for bluegrass music, endorsed in the popular 3 Sisters Bluegrass Festival, which takes place every October. Whilst live music venues across the city hum with the twang of banjos all year round.
If you're seeking a culture-filled afternoon, The Hunter Museum of American Art, perched dramatically above the Tennessee River, is an architectural gem blending a 1905 mansion with modernist glass. Works by Hopper, O’Keeffe and Warhol hang among others, and it is adjacent to the historic Faxon-Hunter home, once owned by the first Coca-Cola bottling magnate.
Just below it, Warehouse Row (which were formerly Civil War warehouses) is now a polished haven of upscale fashion, artisan coffee and concept dining. Stroll across the Walnut Street Bridge, one of the world’s longest pedestrian bridges, and you’re in the NorthShore district, home to galleries, boutique bookstores and the kind of local craftsmanship that feels one-of-a-kind. Even the outdoors have gone luxe: private hang-gliding excursions over Lookout Mountain and sunset sailing.
Nearby, the family-owned Bluff View Art District feels positively Mediterranean: cobbled lanes, palm trees, and the irresistible scent of espresso and homemade pasta wafting from Tony’s Pasta Place. A booking here is highly recommended.
Arguably the most photographed spot, however, is the Chattanooga Choo Choo. The former main-line railway station has been converted into a leisure complex. Rescued from demolition in 1973, you can now sleep in the carriages, which overlook an outdoor pool.
Elsewhere there are music and comedy spots, and plenty of restaurants that attract tourists and locals alike. However, my home for the night was the iconic Read House Hotel; thankfully I was not booked into Room 311, as I had heard the rumour that the ghost of Annalisa Netherly, on occasion, treads the boards there - having been murdered in the bathroom by a jealous lover!
Casting a shadow over the region is Lookout Mountain - historically significant as the site of a major Civil War battle, the “Battle Above the Clouds”. Notably, it is home to Ruby Falls, a geological wonder discovered by accident in 1928 by Leo Lambert. Visitors can now book a guided tour to explore this romantic phenomenon which is named after his wife, and is officially one of the deepest commercial waterfalls open to the public in the United States. Not for the claustrophobic, it is reached by a glass elevator that whisks you 260 feet into the earth, where you are guided through narrow limestone passages before the cave suddenly opens into a soaring rock cathedral boasting a thundering 145-foot waterfall, which literally took my breath away with its force.
On the outside of the mountain, Rock City provides a more whimsical counterpart. First opened in the 1930s, this public “park” is built around ancient rock formations, which have names like Fat Man’s Squeeze and Rainbow Hall. Head to Lover’s Leap, and on a clear day you can see seven surrounding states -Tennessee, Kentucky, Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia and Alabama and marvel at the scale of the States.
Nashville - The 'Music City'
Chattanooga was the perfect prelude to Tennessee’s showpiece, Nashville - a destination that needs little introduction. The self-proclaimed “Music City” defines the word buzzing. With most of the nightlife taking place around Lower Broadway, where the neon glow and country riffs of Honky Tonk Highway spill from over thirty bars and dancehalls and I had to dodge cowboy-booted reams of girls and Stetson-wearing guys, who were here for the line dancing and tequila.
I wasn’t quite dressed for the occasion, but that didn’t matter, everyone is welcome, and it doesn’t cost a thing to listen. Guitars twanged, fiddlers wailed, and every performer was potentially one lucky break away from fame. But Nashville isn’t just rhinestones and whiskey. It’s a city where music, art and luxury mingle seamlessly. The Country Music Hall of Fame is a modernist marvel of glass and stone that tells the story of America’s western stars, and even if, like me, you’re not a true aficionado, you will definitely recognise some of the names and marvel at the teeny-waisted outfits that belong to Dolly Parton and Elvis’s “solid gold” Cadillac - proud relics of Southern mythology. The ground floor is home to the Hatch Show Print workshop, and I booked a session to learn how countless iconic music posters have been produced with the same press since 1879.
Just across town, the National Museum of African American Music (NMAAM) takes you deeper, tracing the roots of gospel, blues, jazz and hip-hop, and showing how Black creativity has shaped the soundtrack of America. It’s immersive, emotional and as alive as the streets outside. Give yourself plenty of time to enjoy the hands-on exhibits.
The 130-year-old Ryman Auditorium is an institution not only in Nashville but in the music industry as a whole. A former church, it was the first home of the Grand Ole Opry, where legends like Johnny Cash, Dolly Parton, Willie Nelson and Hank Williams trod the boards. It’s worth taking a tour to relive those heady days for yourself.
Now, America’s longest-running radio show has moved to a new location, and the Grand Ole Opry is a global phenomenon that has played host to legendary performers and today’s top artists such as Luke Combs, Post Malone, Lainey Wilson, Carrie Underwood and Darius Rucker. If you’re really organised, you can book in advance to get a seat at the new theatre, which this year, celebrated one hundred years of live music. The building, whilst more modern, hints at the good old days, and although the stars have changed, the golden circle is still evident on the stage. On my visit, Sabrina Carpenter made her debut- in a show that I (and presumably she) will never forget!
If the tap of Cuban heels is wearing thin, there are plenty of sophisticated spots to enjoy the view, and I discovered a secret speakeasy: The Catbird Seat, hidden atop an unassuming building in the Gulch neighbourhood. Offering cosy booths and a long bar, the service is attentive and the mood romantic; with low-key DJs playing dance music until the early hours, this is an antidote to commercial country and offers an elegance you might not expect. Although in the daytime, Swifties queue up here for a selfie with the “What Lifts You” giant angel wings by Kelsey Montague.
From cowboys to country ballads and a side of unapologetically fiery hot chicken, Tennessee has always carried a certain mythology. Yet on a recent journey through the state, I found far more than rhinestones and whiskey chasers. Neighbourhood honky-tonks may still hum until sunrise, but alongside them sits a world of contemporary creativity, art-forward neighbourhoods and quietly luxurious escapes. From the heartbeat of Nashville to the river-wrapped elegance of Chattanooga and its bohemian undercurrent, Tennessee isn’t just having a moment, it’s redefining Southern luxury with style and soul.
Family-owned for over fifty years, Baros is one of the Maldives’ original luxury resorts. Today, it remains an intimate, award-winning sanctuary that has evolved with grace. Maria Holloway checked into the resort and discovered a haven of timeless calm and understated luxury.
There’s something magnetic about The Phoenicia Malta. Maybe it’s the way the light hits the limestone at sunset, turning the façade gold, or the quiet confidence of the staff who greet you as if you’ve stayed before. Within minutes of arriving, I understood why this hotel isn’t just where you stay in Valletta, it’s where the city begins.
