If there’s one thing worth knowing about Lake Como, it’s that everything they say about Passalacqua is true.
Mass appeal can be as much of a curse as it is a blessing. With widespread popularity comes high expectations and the need to nail every fine detail. Passalacqua is one of those rare places which over delivers in every category.
The property’s success was almost instant. Receiving the title of ‘World’s Best Hotel’ just one year after opening, the estate’s ‘it factor’ was unanimously agreed on. For anyone fortunate enough to visit, spending any length of time here feels like a privilege. Within mere minutes of being on the property, there was no question as to why it had received such an accolade. Simply put, it's magical.
The history
Prior to opening as a hotel in 2022, Passalacqua had always been a private villa. The estate was constructed at the end of the 18th century by Count Andrea Lucini-Passalacqua, a descendant of one of Moltrasio’s leading noble families. His intention was to create one of the grandest properties in the area, and few can deny his success in that endeavour.
Though privately owned, the property wasn't short on esteemed guests, including Napoleon Bonaparte, Winston Churchill and John F. Kennedy. In 1925, the villa was used as the set for Alfred Hitchcock's first movie 'The Pleasure Garden.’ The famous opera composer Vincenzo Bellini also penned a number of his most famous works while staying at Passalacqua, (his scores are played throughout the property today in his honour).
Following the death of the last Lucini-Passalacqua count in 1890, the estate changed hands several times, before being acquired by the De Santis family in 2018. As Lake Como natives and owners of Grand Hotel Tremezzo, there was nobody better equipped to restore the property to its original splendour.
In 2022, Passalacqua opened its doors for the first time as a hotel, offering guests a one-of-a-kind experience to enjoy world-class Italian hospitality in a luxurious setting.
The setting
Located in the enchanting village of Moltrasio just an hour’s drive from Milan, Passalacqua boasts total seclusion without being too far removed from civilization. Impeccably manicured gardens, carefully curated interiors and tasteful amenities are a few hallmark features. Arguably though, its selling point isn't a quality you can necessarily name — it’s more of an intangible essence.
As we enter the exquisitely decorated breakfast room, owner and CEO Valentina De Santis is just leaving, alongside the hotel’s pool area stylist, JJ Martin. Both are impeccably dressed, greeting us with warm smiles and a ‘buongiorno’ on their way out. In a way, it feels like we have just stepped into their home, and they couldn’t be more pleased to welcome us. This genuine air of hospitality tangibly thrums throughout the entire property.
The De Santis family have been nothing if not hands-on in their efforts with Passalacqua. The decor is faultless throughout, with many pieces, including precious antiques, personally sourced by various family members. There has been evident effort made to showcase Italian craftsmanship across many of the villa's visual aspects. There is a careful fusion of past and present displayed in the aesthetics, with old world splendour meeting modern comforts. Antique trunks are positioned at the foot of the bed, housing a flat screen television discreetly inside. The dramatic effect of high ceilings are emphasised by intricate chandeliers, while oversized bay windows are adorned by silk taffeta curtains. Every last detail has been curated to perfection.
The amenities
The outdoor pool is the hotel’s crowning glory and the most splashed amenity on social media. JJ Martin brought her creative vision to life in a refined collection of green fringed parasols and wonderfully plush sun loungers. A luscious arrangement of ancient cypress trees and cedars flank the space, with a perfectly positioned gap giving way to the breathtaking lake view. There are few places on earth more idyllic.
The spa is frequently visited by guests looking for some precious R&R time. It is housed in the Palazz which is located behind the main villa and contains an impressive array of amenities designed for peak relaxation and restoration. The reception and relaxation area can found on the top floor, while the sauna, ice bath and treatment rooms are downstairs, accessed via a set of secret18th century tunnels which also lead from the property to the lake.
The newest addition to this level is the indoor pool. The space is truly nature-drenched, boasting tranquil views of the surrounding gardens and wraparound windows which allow the sunlight to stream through. The water is set to that perfect temperature which has you feeling noticeably limber afterwards. Floating on my back, I look up at the sky and find myself experiencing a real ‘pinch me’ moment over my current reality.
Outside of the amenities list, guests can curate an itinerary tailored to their every desire. A mid-morning tennis match on the lakeside courts can be followed by an afternoon flower making class, before heading to the all-day bar for aperitivo hour. Campari spritz anyone?
The verdict
Passalacqua’s twenty four suites are spread across its seven luscious acres. Twelve can be found in the Villa, while eight are located in the Palazz and four in the Casa al Lago. With this layout, it’s entirely possible not to have much crossover with other guests, but the community aspect is undoubtedly part of the property’s charm. Despite the sense of grandeur, Passalacqua has historically been a home and does still feel this way. This particular aspect is a real grounding force.
While browsing the pastries in the farm-style kitchen, I overheard an elderly lady asking a staff member if it was possible to request a crepe. The attendant was all too happy to oblige, leading her to the cooking area to speak with the chefs directly. ‘We can watch them make it for you!’ she exclaimed with a beaming smile.
It was a wholesome interaction and a testament to the level of care guests receive while staying here, even if it's something which seems small. This is the true meaning of la dolce vita. Glitz and glamour aside, the chance to enjoy these small touches in a globally-renowned hotel is a travel memory to cherish forever.
Passalacqua
Address: Via Besana, 59, 22010 Moltrasio CO, Italy
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