Beyond its reputation as a fabled backpacker’s paradise, Phuket has a luxurious edge that’s totally irresistible, says Phoebe Tatham.
With its crystalline beaches, punchy cuisine and affordable rates, Phuket is every inch a backpacker’s paradise. Whilst Thailand’s largest island continues to draw crowds seeking island bliss on a shoestring, Phuket also boasts a luxurious side thanks to a growing number of five-star hotels materialising along the coastline.
Chief among them is Sri Panwa, which sits like an amber-hued jewel atop Cape Panwa on Phuket’s southernmost tip. Despite checking in against a backdrop of inky skies and sheet lightning, the resort’s allure was instantaneous. Indeed, as I glanced out towards the water from my private terrace, a dreamlike tableau unfurled with an unlikely protagonist: a fisherman quietly catching squid at the water’s edge, armed with a single lamp.
By sunrise, the rain had given way to sherbet skies daubed with brushstrokes of pink and pale orange. This peaceful moment was interrupted only by a cacophony of birdsong in the form of squawking jungle crows, chirpy yellow-vented bulbuls, oriental magpie-robins and blue whistling thrushes. Then at precisely 6am, a chorus of siren-like cicadas erupted, signalling the start of a new day.
Nature feeds into the entire Sri Panwa experience, including the hotel design and interiors. The sprawling family-owned resort, home to 20 Pool Suites, 65 villas, 10 Penthouses, and 24 Yaya Pool Suites, snakes its way around jungle-like terrain peppered with undulating inclines. The Ocean View One-Bedroom Luxury Pool Villas feel Bond-esque with their abundance of natural materials, smart lighting, and state-of-the-art sound systems. Guests can slink their way from king-sized beds into sunken seating areas before dipping into gigantic whirlpool baths and finally into their own private pools with uninterrupted views across the Andaman Sea.
Interiors are awash with tropical flourishes such as carved wooden doors, billowing curtains, and stone flooring. Pool suites also boast a separate living area located just steps from the main suite. Here, an oversized sofa anchors the room alongside a kitchenette and an additional bathroom. Personal touches such as freshly-baked biscuits and kaleidoscopic fruit bowls weave in an added layer of luxury. Should guests wish to venture beyond their private eden, the hotel also features three substantial swimming pools in addition to a private beach kitted out with canoes and paddleboards.
Aesthetics aside, Sri Panwa cements its five-star status with its extensive culinary offerings. Epicureans will delight in feasting their way around the resort’s eight restaurants and bars spotlighting both Thai and international cuisine. Our most memorable meal took place at Japanese restaurant Baba IKI, where we indulged in an omakase experience fit for royalty. Inches from the chef, guests are ceremoniously presented with a succession of meticulously-prepared dishes. We watched in awe as the culinary whizz deftly dipped his fingers into a bowl of water before handshaping small rice balls into cocoon-like creations. These were then topped with zingy wasabi and the freshest slithers of fish. Highlights included sweet shrimp with scallop and caviar, fatty blue fin tuna, squid with punchy yuzu, and a moreish beef sando embellished with glossy pearls of caviar, all washed down with ice-cold green tea.
Elsewhere, Baba Hot Box serves up premium cuts of meats and seafood, all grilled to perfection in the flames of a Josper barbecue. Expect to devour succulent grouper, chubby tiger prawns, tender wagyu beef, and juicy lamb ribs alongside lightly charred vegetables. At Baba Soul Food, dishes such as deep fried tofu with mushrooms, massaman curry, and braised pork reign supreme, while at Baba Chino, glass noodles with cabbage, glazed pork, and refreshing melon sago are the order of the day.
For something more immersive, guests can whip up their own feast at Baba Cooking School. During our session, we prepared a hot and sour soup teeming with shrimp and shiitake mushrooms, followed by a traditional pad thai that came together in mere minutes. To finish, we devoured an elegant mango sticky rice laden with golden spheres of fruit. There’s pure alchemy in the way that the lightly salted rice contrasts with the creamy coconut sauce and sticky mango. It’s unexpected but oddly addictive.
Sundowners and nightcaps are best reserved for the hotel’s standout rooftop bar: Baba Nest. With its cinematic 360-degree views, it’s frequently been ranked among the best rooftop bars in the world. Go for the ‘Special Pours’ and unparalleled golden hour photo opportunities. Baba TU, meanwhile, is an extension of Baba Nest and boasts amphitheatre-style seating for added theatrical flair.
If wellness is a priority, be sure to indulge in Sri Panwa’s Cool Spa which sits behind cobalt-blue walls overflowing with curling, green tendrils. This same blue hue coats the interior walls and arrives in liquid form via cups of butterfly pea flower tea. Treatments take place in private, subterranean rooms decked out with waterfalls. My therapist kicked things off with an exfoliating foot scrub created using ground tamarind and flour, before working her magic on my shoulders and back with a mango sticky rice polish. Rounding off the treatment was an energising massage designed to release tension and boost circulation.
On the activity front, guests can master the art of zen in a sunrise yoga session, or embark on a luxury longtail boat trip to explore Coral Island - a picturesque sanctuary framed by turquoise waters and pristine beaches. Cool down with a cocktail, or dive headfirst into the sea to marvel at shoals of striped sergeant major fish interspersed with rainbow-hued parrot fish and tentacular brittle stars.
Aside from its astounding natural beauty, Phuket is also fabled for its high-octane nightlife, with the tech-house and electronic scenes drawing the largest crowds. For those looking to embrace the beats, Sri Panwa’s more exuberant, younger sister, Baba Beach Club Natai, fits the bill. Technically located in the Phang Nga Province, Natai Beach has been dubbed ‘The Hamptons of Phuket’ thanks to its secluded feel and 10-kilometre stretch of powdery sand. Designed for music lovers, the hotel is equipped with Marshall speakers and moreover boasts a vibrant beach bar that juts into the main pool, bedecked with mirrored tiles. Think shimmering UFO meets oversized disco ball.
This playfulness also runs through the interiors, with all 34 villas and suites embellished with slick dark wood and pops of electric blue. The Gabana Villas feature swanky open-plan living rooms complete with giant L-shaped sofas as well as first-floor bedrooms and bathrooms that look out towards the pool area. Elsewhere, the poolside is flush with fuschia cushions, while the Baba Beach Restaurant is bursting with flashes of tangerine and turquoise. It feels like a heady mix of spirited Ibizan decor with an injection of Thai sophistication.
If the party scene isn’t your natural habitat, the two-kilometre private beach is a quiet enclave ideal for early morning meditation or more energising activities such as Muay Thai. Organised by the hotel, these expert-led classes awaken your inner warrior, encouraging you to strike and glide across the sand with precision. Further afield, Samet Nangshe viewpoint, albeit slightly hair-raising at 800 metres high, offers dramatic views across Phang Nga Bay with its serene waters and imposing limestone karst formations. Somewhat quasi-mythical in appearance, it’s easy to see why this spot served as the filming location for the 1974 Bond film The Man with the Golden Gun.
What’s truly ingenious about these sister properties is how they effortlessly capture Phuket’s duality. Wellness lovers will find solace indulging in Sri Panwa’s rejuvenating rituals and gastronomic excellence, while thrillseekers will feel right at home embracing Baba Beach Club Natai’s fun-loving spirit. Yearning for both? Combine the two and you’re well on your way to living out your very own Bond movie.
Luxury Longtail Boat, half day, 4.5 hours: £295.08 (1-5 guests), with each additional guest at £22.70 (max 8 guests)
Private 45-minute yoga class: £90.79 (1-4 guests)
Cooking class: Two dishes: £40.86++ per person
Muay Thai Boxing class: Group class, up to ten guests: £317.78, one to one class: £88.52, additional person: £27.24
Sri Panwa Room Rates (low Season: 17th April – 31st October 2026): 1BR Luxury Pool Villa Ocean View: £520.24
Baba Beach Club Natai Room Rates (Low Season: 17 April – 31 October 2026): Gabana Villa: £220.25
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